DISCOVERING AX LES THERMES
We're on a weeks adventure in The Pryenees and are on the road to Ax Les Thermes..... read the whole weeks report here.
PART 1 - AX 3 DOMAINES
Then we start the descent into Ax Les Thermes – first impressions are that it is huge! Expecting a small village, we were surprised at how large it was and we could see the telecabine rising up from the village the other side of the mountain – that was for tomorrow.
We checked into the Lagrange’s Chalets des Ax – a series of comfortable apartments with a reception area, ours was a studio apartment with a sofa bed, small kitchen in the corner and a bathroom – they have larger ones available and there is a free Jacuzzi to use as well and are just a ten minute walk from the town centre.
FOOD & DRINK…
And to food! We soon discovered it is very different from the usual Alpine fare and over the next few days enjoy the distinctly Mediterranean flavour to it. Apparently there are 25 restaurants in Ax and only two specialise in the typical fondue and raclette so common in the Alps. But tonight we ventured out of town, about a fifteen minute drive to eat at Maison la Cube and it’s well worth the trip. There is friendly welcome and great service from staff who run the restaurant. Their policy is organic where possible and if organic isn’t available then locally produced food (and local is better than shipping something that is out of season half way round the world) – a great ethos especially when we consider this season’s snow conditions have probably been affected by global warming! The result is a fabulous meal that tastes good and you feel it is doing you good rather than the usual cheese soaked meals that you almost feel obliged to eat after a hard day on the slopes. How refreshing to be fed healthily in a ski resort! It was accompanied by a bottle of regional white wine from Domaine de Lastronques that was superb and then finished off with their local plum version of Genepi!
Bed called and we turned in for an early night looking forward to discovering the ski area tomorrow.
SKIING IN AX 3 DOMAINES
Apparently there is only 40% of the area open and nearly all of that thanks to the snow canons that cover the runs in artificial snow. We learn later that the chief snowmaker is well known for being one of the best in the business – who knew there was a ranking in snow makers?
We join Stefane from the ESF who spends the morning guiding us around the three areas of Ax 3 Domains – all of which are open and can be accessed. Even with the limited snow all are very different. It is easy to see that there is something for everyone from a new beginners area that is strictly only for beginners (they even have a special pass for that area) and as you progress, plenty of blues and easy reds.
The thing that excites me most is the potential of the off piste – the tree line is much higher here than the Alps so you nearly always have cover in bad weather and there is a huge variety of off piste that would keep any powder hound happy if you timed it right.
Unlike the big household name resorts that get skied out in half an hour after a big fall we are reliably informed that you can find fresh tracks for days as few people ski off piste and the resort is quiet outside of holidays and weekends.
And then you find out that on all skiable sides of the mountain at the bottom are long green runs traversing around the mountain that always bring you back to resort! So wherever you ski off piste you pick your line, keep skiing until you hit the green run and then cruise back to resort to do it all again. No hiking out of hidden valleys here!
Damn you weather gods of 2016-17 – please deliver soon. Oh well I guess I’ll just have to come back another time.
THE BEST APRES SKI!
A great day on the slopes and then we find the best après ski! It doesn’t get much better than this and doesn’t even involve beer!
We head to Les Bains du Couloubret.
Thermal baths that are all created from naturally heated spring water. You can even buy a combined ski and thermal pass on the same ticket – straight off the slopes and into the baths to soothe those aching legs! You really don’t need loads of beer for après ski here!
Though the ones we washed a great pizza down with at The Grand Café tasted good!
What a day!
OFF THE SLOPES...
The following day we take off to discover a couple of other off slope things to do in the area – we retrace our steps back to the Col du Chioula which is usually a hive of activity for snow-shoeing and cross country skiing but this season is only suitable for a walk – but it’s a spectacular one with 360 degree views over the mountains and across the valley to the ski area we were cruising around yesterday.
We follow this with a local’s tip and explore a nearby thermal bath – this could not be more different than the baths yesterday – this is a 10 minute drive and then a 10 minute walk up a path into the trees and mountains in the direction of Merens (ask a local!) and we find the most perfect natural hot baths with a source of hot water running into them that even on this coldest of days make it worth stripping off and taking the plunge!
A couple of cocktails in the fabulous Grand Café before eating and then a ten minute stroll back to our apartment.
READ MORE ABOUT OUR ADVENTURES HERE....
PART 2 - FONT ROMEU
PART 3 - LES ANGLES