Is Chamonix the perfect ski town?

Chamonix has been synoymous with skiing and snowboarding since the early 1900's and the first ever Winter Olympics - held in Chamonix in 1924 - put it firmly on the map as a premier winter sports destination. More than 90 years on, it still has a place in most skiers 'top 10'. But unlike some of the other mega resorts, Chamonix has kept a charm and sense of history, not to mention more accommodation options than almost any other ski resort. ranging from small self catering apartments up to 5* hotels.

The reason for this is the unique layout of the town, the Chamonix Valley encompasses 16 little hamlets and villages with a variety of accommodation unmathced by most other ski areas.

Earlier this season we visited and stayed in Vallorcine, lying to the east of Chamonix town close to Switzerland, Vallorcine is a pretty hamlet with some excellent restaurants, and direct access to one of the main 5 Chamonix ski areas - Le Tour. Crucially there is also a train station with direct access to the town, so staying here and skiing the multiple Chamonix areas without a car is perfecrtly possible, though personally we enjoyed the flexibility of a rental car, and saved the train for one atmospheric ride to town.

We stayed at the 5* Vallorcine Residence and Spa. Perhaps a surprising find in a small hamlet, this impressive property combines apartment accommodation with a large spa complex with indoor pool, gym, massage and other spa services and a stunning ice rink lying in the brooding shadow of Le Tour. 

Although there is no restaurant on site there are several excellent options within a 5 minute walk. Breakfast can be DIY in your apartment with fresh bread and croissants from the excellent on site bakery, who also offer a good value breakfast buffet. An on site ski hire shop is well stocked and friendly staff will arrange liftpasses and anythng else you need.

Snow conditions were best described as 'variable' but one of the beauty's of Chamonix is even when there is a lack of snow the sheer size, variety and layout of the ski areas means good snow can always be found somewhere, and boredom is never an issue as each area has its own distinct character. We skiied Brevent and Les Grand Montets over a 3 night stay and despite sunny skies more in keeping with Easter than Christmas skiing, we still had a great time with a mix of cruising pistes and more challenging terrain. Chamonix has a reputation as an 'experts resort' but really that's due to the extensive off-piste, for which you must have a guide, rather than the variety or marked pistes which offer plenty of options for intermediates.