Ski Blog | Skiers - Intermediate

AN ADVENTURE IN THE PYRENEES

A WEEK IN THE PRYENEES

THE JOURNEY...

I’d never been to the Pyrenees and yet I have skied since I was a child and been fortunate to ski most of the major Alpine resorts, I’ve skied in the US and Canada but never made it to the Pyrenees for some reason so when the opportunity came up I jumped at it.  

If your geography is like mine then The Pyrenees are a range of mountains based on the border of France and Spain, they stretch the whole width of that border and also include Andorra.

Wanting to make the most of it, with a car and knowing we were on a tour we set off a day early with Carcassonne programmed into our sat nav.

Friends have recommended Carcassonne and I had read about how stunning it is in many travel media reports and it is also the inspiration for Kate Mosse’s novel Labyrinth. 

Tall turrets, fairy tale castle like appearance, small cobbled streets….

We arrived at our hotel in what looked like the old town but we discovered we weren’t in the medieval part at all – that came after dinner when we wandered across the ‘Pont Vieux’ (The Old Bridge) and then came to the ramparts. An uphill walk and we struggled to find a way in until we found a small gateway and then we were in! This is incredible!  Tall turrets, fairy tale castle like appearance, small cobbled streets we found a few bars and restaurants and chose one for a glass of wine and we warmed up. 

This place at night was like a dream and we couldn’t wait to come back to explore in the morning.

It didn’t disappoint – clearly a summer destination with several empty shops there was still a buzz and a very cold wind!  Wrap up warm if you venture here in January on your way to or from a ski trip in the Pyrenees!

Little cobbled streets, friendly bars and breakfast stops, resisting the vin chaud we stuck with teas and coffees (more appropriate for breakfast) and we wandered through the streets, inadvertently doubling back on ourselves and re tracing our steps more than once!  We found the Chateau, Basilique and Theatre and then walked the ramparts with great views over the new town and reluctantly headed for the car.

We had some skiing to do.

TWISTY WINDY ROADS…

The drive from Carcassonne to The Pyrenees is stunning, through orchards and vine yards and the foothills and then The Pyrenees themselves. It is breathtaking – twisty windy roads, amazing views and ever growing mountains.  We drove over the Col du Chioula and wondered if it would be closed during a usual winter of snow but 2016 / 2017 hadn’t yet delivered so we got to enjoy a fabulous drive.

Then the descent into Ax Les Thermes – first impressions are that it is huge!  Expecting a small village, we were surprised at how large it was and we could see the telecabine rising up from the village the other side of the mountain – that was for tomorrow.

We checked into the Lagrange’s Chalets des Ax – a series of comfortable apartments with a reception area, ours was a studio apartment with a sofa bed, small kitchen in the corner and a bathroom – they have larger ones available and there is a free Jacuzzi to use as well and are just a ten minute walk from the town centre.

FOOD & DRINK…

And to food!  We soon discovered it is very different from the usual Alpine fare and over the next few days enjoy the distinctly Mediterranean flavour to it.   Apparently there are 25 restaurants in Ax and only two specialise in the typical fondue and raclette so common in the Alps. But tonight we ventured out of town, about a fifteen minute drive to eat at Maison la Cube and it’s well worth the trip.  There is friendly welcome and great service from staff who run the restaurant.  Their policy is organic where possible and if organic isn’t available then locally produced food (and local is better than shipping something that is out of season half way round the world) – a great ethos especially when we consider this season’s snow conditions have probably been affected by global warming!  The result is a fabulous meal that tastes good and you feel it is doing you good rather than the usual cheese soaked meals that you almost feel obliged to eat after a hard day on the slopes.  How refreshing to be fed healthily in a ski resort!  It was accompanied by a bottle of regional white wine from Domaine de Lastronques that was superb and then finished off with their local plum version of Genepi!

Bed called and we turned in for an early night looking forward to discovering the ski area tomorrow.

SKIING IN AX 3 DOMAINES

Apparently there is only 40% of the area open and nearly all of that thanks to the snow canons that cover the runs in artificial snow. We learn later that the chief snowmaker is well known for being one of the best in the business – who knew there was a ranking in snow makers?

We join Stefane from the ESF who spends the morning guiding us around the three areas of Ax 3 Domains – all of which are open and can be accessed. Even with the limited snow all are very different.  It is easy to see that there is something for everyone from a new beginners area that is strictly only for beginners (they even have a special pass for that area) and as you progress, plenty of blues and easy reds. 

The thing that excites me most is the potential of the off piste – the tree line is much higher here than the Alps so you nearly always have cover in bad weather and there is a huge variety of off piste that would keep any powder hound happy if you timed it right.

Unlike the big household name resorts that get skied out in half an hour after a big fall we are reliably informed that you can find fresh tracks for days as few people ski off piste and the resort is quiet outside of holidays and weekends.

And then you find out that on all skiable sides of the mountain at the bottom are long green runs traversing around the mountain that always bring you back to resort! So wherever you ski off piste you pick your line, keep skiing until you hit the green run and then cruise back to resort to do it all again. No hiking out of hidden valleys here!

Damn you weather gods of 2016-17 – please deliver soon.  Oh well I guess I’ll just have to come back another time.

THE BEST APRES SKI!

A great day on the slopes and then we find the best après ski!  It doesn’t get much better than this and doesn’t even involve beer!

We head to Les Bains du Couloubret.

Thermal baths that are all created from naturally heated spring water.  You can even buy a combined ski and thermal pass on the same ticket – straight off the slopes and into the baths to soothe those aching legs!  You really don’t need loads of beer for après ski here!

Though the ones we washed a great pizza down with at The Grand Café tasted good!

What a day!

OFF THE SLOPES...

The following day we take off to discover a couple of other off slope things to do in the area – we retrace our steps back to the Col du Chioula which is usually a hive of activity for snow-shoeing and cross country skiing but this season is only suitable for a walk – but it’s a spectacular one with 360 degree views over the mountains and across the valley to the ski area we were cruising around yesterday.

We follow this with a local’s tip and explore a nearby thermal bath – this could not be more different than the baths yesterday – this is a 10 minute drive and then a 10 minute walk up a path into the trees and mountains in the direction of Merens (ask a local!) and we find the most perfect natural hot baths with a source of hot water running into them that even on this coldest of days make it worth stripping off and taking the plunge!

A couple of cocktails in the fabulous Grand Café before eating and then a ten minute stroll back to our apartment.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN TO FONT ROMEU

We wake to much needed snow all the way down to the village at 700m – not ideal as we were leaving for Font Romeu but after a dry month it is still exciting!

The drive turns out to be easier than we expected and going close to the Spanish border, passing through some tunnels and managing to avoid some cows licking salt off the road we arrive in Font Romeu at the Hotel Grand Tetras.

Our guide is Christophe from the Tourist Office and he also works as an ESF instructor so we are in good hands as we head up the hill – it’s blowing hard but the snow is falling as we explore the slopes of what is a small resort with limited vertical but it is friendly and perfect for beginners, intermediates and families.

Like most of the Pyreneans we see they seem to want to do that bit more than take your money and shrug and later that day we find ourselves being talked into trying out a Sit Ski, usually for use by those unable to ski themselves.   But they are holding an ‘open day’ and the volunteers are inviting people to try it out.  To find out how we got on click here.

That night we eat at La Table des Saveurs with Christian Sarran, director of the Tourist Office - he entertains us with stories of the area and his knowledge of wines is as good as his local koweldge which is great as we enjoy a couple of great wines with dinner!

The Wednesday morning we head up the slopes again and venture over to the renowned snow park – reportedly only second in impressiveness behind Tignes in France and this year the hosts of a Freestyle World Cup event – a great coup for a resort of this size and the jumps are huge! Watch out report from there here.

That evening after a great ski we head off to more thermal baths at Llo – these are not as refined or new as the ones we visited in Ax but still have three different outside pools, a couple indoors and a sauna and steam room.  It’s a great way to relax the ski legs!

MOVING ON TO LES ANGLES…

The next day we are on the move again as we drive to Les Angles – it’s an easy drive of around 20 minutes and we’re surprised at how large the town looks as we approach it. It seems to have a distinctly Alpine feel to it as the runs come down to the resort through the trees.

We meet Antonia from the Tourist Office and head up the mountain to ski.  The weather is back to its weird 2017 showing and it feels like spring!  But the pistes are empty, so empty it feels like a private ski resort.  The views here are stunning and you feel higher than in Font Romeu which you can see from the top along with Spain and Andorra. 

The vertical is more and the pistes are in great condition with the recent fresh snow on the base of artificial snow they have been producing – nearly all of the runs are within the trees which bodes well should there be bad weather and apparently makes for some fabulous off piste – when the conditions are good which sadly they aren't right now.

Late afternoon we go dog sledding – I am always dubious about this and not 100% sure the dogs are happy but once more I am swayed that they are and that they do love running – here there is a mix of dogs, they are not all the expected huskies and include a labrador and collie!  In the capable hands of Guillame we head out into the forest and he explains how the dogs work together, some you can see take a rest and don't work that hard, they place the stronger ones at the back where it is heavier and they command the dogs with very soft words from the back.  To make them turn at the right time he calmly calls out “a droit” or “a gauche” and he is always giving them some form of encouragement and they respond immediately.

We see some deer in the forest – it’s a protected area and hunting here isn’t allowed – they aren’t daft! Through the forest, alongside the lake it’s a beautiful journey and back at the centre we get to pet the dogs who are all friendly and do seem very happy.

Dinner is at the hotel Le LLaret and we have just one day left in the Pyrenees – the forecast is at last for a lot of snow but with it stormy winds and so we’re not sure we’ll be skiing tomorrow.

It’s gone from French Riviera spring weather to Siberian winter overnight and there are hardly any lifts open – skiing is off the agenda, We’re neither brave nor stupid enough to head up so instead set off to see more of the incredible history of the area.  We visit a walled mediaeval city Mont-Louis which is a UNESCO heritage site and then the thermal baths at St Thomas.  Back in resort later we venture out into the wind and discover a very cute little bar - Le Comptoir Montagne which doubles as a shop and we warm up with a vin chaud.

Restaurant Le Llaret feeds us again on our last night –great food and excellent service that feels very different to the usual Alpine resort food.

THE END

We have come to the end of our Pyrenean adventure and the following morning crawl slowly down the snowy roads and away from the Pyrenees.  Our stay has been all too short, we are leaving just as the snow arrives but I have seen enough to want to come back. 

Yes you do really need a car to make the most of it, but access from Barcelona, Toulouse, Perpignan or Carcassonne is easy. For a week’s holiday experienced skiers will want to make it a two or three resort stop trip but for beginners and families or a long weekend it is ideal. 

The Pyrenean resorts we visited generally felt very different to the large Alpine resorts that we tend to head to almost by default, much friendlier and more welcoming and most of the resorts don’t have a problem doing short breaks so for a cheeky weekend when it snows this would be ideal.  We’ll be back! READ MORE ABOUT THE PYRENEES HERE

A Snow Report from Les Angles in The Pyrenees

Rich is in Les Angles in The Pyrenees and sends us this report from the snowy but empty slopes there.  Great conditions, no queues, fabulous weather! 

Slopestyle World Cup Event in Font Romeu

The Slopestyle World Cup is in Font Romeu this weekend and it's the first practice day. 

 It's the first time The Pyrenees have hosted the event and it's a huge thing for the reeort.  Loads of work has gone into it including moving more than 30,000 sq m of earth to build the jumps! 

Find out more on their website here http://www.sfrfreestyletour.fr/_en/epreuve/1_font-romeu.html

IT’S SNOWING!  Rich is in The Pyrenees

Rich is in The Pyrenees and it looks like winter has arrived!  The snow is there, conditions are great, the pistes are empty, what more do you want?

Rich tries Cross Country Skiing

Rich gives cross country skiing a go - find out he got on.

IT’S SNOWING!!

Rich reports from Morzine where there has been some fresh snow at last! 

He has a chat with Dom from Skiology who was skiing in Avoriaz this morning.

Skiology have some great flexible breaks available in Grands Sapin, their chalet in the middle of Morzine - click here to find out more about the chalet and the great offer. Just £399pp for 4 nights. 

To see all Skiology's chalets in Morzine and Les Carroz click here.

Let's hope this is the start and we get a load of snow!  :-) 

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

So here we are in 2017!  

Lets hope that mother nature brings more snow for the rest of the season than she did at the start of this season!

What ever happens whether you are skiing, boarding, hiking, cross country skiing, sledging have fun but stay safe!

Make this the year you try something different - if you ski why not try snowboarding, if you're a snowboarder try skiing, learn to telemark, learn to cross country ski, go snow shoeing..... there are loads of things to do in the mountains that we tend to ignore in our rush to get up the hill and do what we always do!

Learning something new is a challenge and yes while frustrating at times it is also very rewarding, great fun and really worthwhile.

Why not look further afield than the usual known resorts - yes they offer great skiing but then so do a lot of smaller less know resorts as well and are often less crowded as well.

Whatever you do make sure you enjoy it, we don't have long here so lets make the most of the mountains!

When was the last time you did something new?  Why not make it this year?  

Have an amazing 2017, please do share your experiences with us.

If there’s not much snow you can always go for a walk!

Rich is in the Alps looking for things to do when there isn't much snow to ski on and went for a walk in the mountains! 

Extraordinary Piste Maintenance

I am always amazed at the lengths resorts go to to keep as much open as possible when there is little snow cover piste bashers, lorry loads of snow, helicoptors dropping it but I have never seen this before!  

So be assured most resorts do do as much as possible to keep as much open as they can! 

Great New Year Offers!

Rich reports from the Alps and has some great offers for New Year - check them out on the site here https://www.altitudeholidays.com/ski-deals.

There are loads of deals to be had from FREE champagne, HALF PRICE deals and rare New Year FLEXI BREAKS!  

Aware that there is limited skiing to be had he also has some ideas of things for you to try.  

Be one of the first to hear about our offers and deals by registering on the site here https://www.altitudeholidays.com/account/register