Ski Blog | Archive P40/2019

LES ANGLES - THE SKIING

This is a guest blog by Amber W an intermediate skier.

My first impressions of the Les Angles ski area were good, the snow was in great condition despite being artificial snow from cannons - there were very few icy patches. For a resort which was awaiting the beginning of this season's natural snow, the open pistes had been extremely well covered and maintained.

The skill level the pistes required was enjoyably varied, there were endless opportunities for intermediates to up their game with plenty of slopes available of increasing difficulty. Beginners have a great area of more gentle slopes to practice on and the descent to the village can be made via a choice of piste - green, blue, red or black. This is unusual and a great advantage for Les Angles. Any mixed ability group or family can find a way back to the village to suit them.

The more advanced area of the resort was unfortunately closed during my visit due to the lack of snow affecting all of Europe this January. Our guide took us to the top of the more difficult area suited to better skiers for a look at the slopes and the potential looked very promising.

The views from that side were stunning with wide mountain vistas and Font Romeu clearly visible across the valley.

Les Angles is enjoyable to ski with slopes on two different faces giving opportunities for both early and late sun and protection from most directions of wind. Lower down there are some beautiful tree lined runs, giving valuable protection from the wind and with clearer visibility.

FONT ROMEU - THE SKIING

1. This is a guest blog by Amber W an intermediate skier.

On arrival at the Font Romeu ski area we found access from the village via a gondola, with the option to drive up to a number of the stations further up the mountain. 

There are 41 pistes with 23 lifts covering 43km of skiing with a number of different restaurant and rest stops located throughout the ski area. 

We explored the ski area with Christophe, a guide from the ESF. I was immediately impressed by the quality and quantity of snow on the pistes, Font Romeu has over 550 snow canons covering the ski areas and even this early in a very slow season the pistes were in great condition. Having left behind the icy, rocky slopes of the Alps it was a treat to be skiing on snow rather than bare patches. The pistes were very enjoyable, wide with beautiful surroundings. Font Romeu's comprehensive artificial coverage allows them to open a large proportion of the resort with no snow fall required. 

Despite being a fairly small ski resort, Font Romeu has a fantastic snow park rated the second in France only behind Tignes. This incredible accolade has enabled Font Romou to hold the Freestyle World Cup 2017 for which we were lucky enough to see a practice. The jumps are an unbelievable size, it was clear a huge amount of work was going into giving the competitors optimum conditions. All this in a resort waiting for its snow - Font Romeu has it covered. 

The pistes are fantastic for beginners, intermediates and wonderfully suited to families. For intermediate skiers there are great opportunities to develop with increasingly difficult slopes available. For families it is a relaxed resort offering many suitable areas where parents won't have to worry about finding themselves at the top of a harder slope than anticipated. In addition there are a few more challenging slopes in the 'Calme' area for more advanced skiers. 

The tree cover in the ski area is a real advantage, on a windy day it is a huge benefit to be able to descend into the trees to find the calmer conditions. 

The views from Font Romeu are breathtaking, in some areas the mountains you are looking at are those of neighbouring Spain. 

We were shown around a superb children's facility offering a safe and fun skiing environment for children from 2 and half years old - watch our video about this here.

Children can be registered here for lessons or for complete day care, giving parents the freedom to hit the slopes for as long as they like.

There are a number of restaurants in the ski area, skiers will never find themselves far from the next opportunity to rest or warm up. The food is impressive, more varied and less basic than the food often offered in Alpine resorts. There is a definite Mediterranean influence in both the food and service here. We felt very welcome and would definitely return.

AX 3 DOMAINES - THE SKIING

This is a guest blog by Amber an intermediate skier.

We were very lucky to have an instructor / guide for the morning, Stephane from the ESF – I was immediately at ease with him and he is obviously very practiced in assessing people's skills and confidence levels before setting off to show them the resort.

I was stunned by the pistes, the condition that they were in was a far cry from the ice and rocks we'd left behind in the Alps. The snow was almost all artificial at this stage as the last snow fall had been well over a month before and there had been rain in between so we really were seeing the slopes at their worst. Well if that is their worst then this would be playground heaven on a good day. The pistes were wide, the snow was soft, of course there was the odd icy patch but no more than you might expect in any resort.

The tree line here is what really struck me, it is much higher than in the Alps. The morning we hit the slopes was windy, cloudy and became very snowy. We were thanked for bringing the snow and the excitement in resort was easy to detect.

Stephane  explained that Ax is made up of the Three Domaines - the three ski areas of the resort. They are three areas which have been developed and linked over the years and whilst all have their own name are now classed under the bracket of Ax Trois Domaines.

You can take a telecabine from the village directly to the plateau at Bonascre, a small area where there are apartments, restaurants, bars, ski shops etc. In fact this is where I picked up my skis for the day thanks to Nikita Sports - a brilliant touch which means there is no carrying of skis and poles in the morning, simply travel up the hill in the telecabine, collect your skis and poles from Bonascre and you're away. Ski storage is readily available in the shop so walking in your ski boots isn't even required if you're willing to carry them in the telecabine - a touch of luxury with no need for ski lockers.

The lifts run from Bonascre up to 2000m, there are two lifts - a fast chair and a telecabine and both go to the same point having been designed to run alongside each other to keep the queues to a minimum. It is possible to drive up to Bonascre so the queue from the village is also minimal.. When we were there only the telecabine was running and there was no queue at all.

The first domaine we skied is the Domaine de Bonascre which rises from 1400-2000 metres. From here there are some wonderful blue runs in the trees providing protection from wind and mist and a green slope all the way back down to the bottom - a great feature. Very often beginners will need to do a fair few weeks of skiing before they are able to ski back down to resort - not here, beginners can ski down from day one. Mixed groups, families, beginners all benefit from this feature.

Next we went to the Domaine de Campels. It was the area which was most likely to become least desirable on a windy, snowy day due to the orientation and wind direction. This is where having a guide really comes into its own, we were able to go and enjoy the Campels area in the morning when in the afternoon we wouldn't have wanted to go there. We took a few runs down to the bottom and they were fantastic.

This resort’s chief snow maker is famous for his skills and I can see why. To have as many slopes open as they have and in the conditions is an unbelievable achievement. We were delighted and surprised.  Once again there is a green back to the village.

The scenery was stunning, sadly much of it was in the clouds but the glimpses we had were superb. The cloud was not a negative though - this snow was to be celebrated!

Back to the Domaine du Saquet, another area of lovely pistes, including reds, blues and the odd black.

Then for lunch at Le Louzat with fresh homemade food, friendly and helpful staff. A very different menu than may be expected in some ski resorts. Definitely a Spanish and Mediterranean influence in not only the food but the service as well.

That afternoon we returned to Domaine de Bonascre, it was heavenly, the wide pistes within the tree line, with both protection from wind and with greatly improved visbility. This is the place to be on days like today.

These three ski areas have something for everyone,  a wonderful selection of beginner slopes, fantastic wide, sweeping blues, steeper more challenging reds, a few good looking blacks and what appears to be an incredible and huge off piste playground with limited dangerous areas.

The mountain food is high quality with friendly service. There is investment and development happening all the time with some of the beginners areas having only just been opened and plans for new lifts & pistes in the pipeline over the next couple of years.

It all made us very hungry to come back later in the season to see it in its full glory.

DISCOVERING LES ANGLES

WE'RE ON A ROAD TRIP IN THE PYRENNES AND ARE MOVING ON TO LES ANGLES…(read the about the whole trip here)

PART 3 - LES ANGLES

We are on the move again as we drive to Les Angles – it’s an easy drive of around 20 minutes from Font Romeu and we’re surprised at how large the town looks as we approach it. It seems to have a more Alpine feel to it as the runs come down to the resort through the trees.

We meet Antonia from the Tourist Office and head up the mountain to ski.  The weather is back to its weird 2017 showing and it feels like spring!  But the pistes are empty, so empty it feels like a private ski resort.  The views here are stunning and you feel higher than in Font Romeu which you can see from the top along with Spain and Andorra. 

The vertical is more and the pistes are in great condition with the recent fresh snow on the base of artificial snow they have been producing – nearly all of the runs are within the trees which bodes well should there be bad weather and apparently makes for some fabulous off piste – when the conditions are good which sadly they aren't right now.

Late afternoon we go dog sledding – I am always dubious about this and not 100% sure the dogs are happy but once more I am swayed that they are and that they do love running – here there is a mix of dogs, they are not all the expected huskies and include a labrador and collie!  In the capable hands of Guillame we head out into the forest and he explains how the dogs work together, some you can see take a rest and don't work that hard, they place the stronger ones at the back where it is heavier and they command the dogs with very soft words from the back.  To make them turn at the right time he calmly calls out “a droit” or “a gauche” and he is always giving them some form of encouragement and they respond immediately.

We see some deer in the forest – it’s a protected area and hunting here isn’t allowed – they aren’t daft! Through the forest, alongside the lake it’s a beautiful journey and back at the centre we get to pet the dogs who are all friendly and do seem very happy.

Dinner is at the hotel Le LLaret and we have just one day left in the Pyrenees – the forecast is at last for a lot of snow but with it stormy winds and so we’re not sure we’ll be skiing tomorrow.

It’s gone from French Riviera spring weather to Siberian winter overnight and there are hardly any lifts open – skiing is off the agenda, We’re neither brave nor stupid enough to head up so instead set off to see more of the incredible history of the area.  

We visit a walled mediaeval city Mont-Louis which is a UNESCO heritage site and then the thermal baths at St Thomas.  Back in resort later we venture out into the wind and discover a very cute little bar - Le Comptoir Montagne which doubles as a shop and we warm up with a vin chaud.

Restaurant Le Llaret feeds us again on our last night – great food and excellent service that feels very different to the usual Alpine resort food.

READ MORE ABOUT OUR ADVENTURES HERE....

PART 1 - AX 3 DOMAINES

PART 2 - FONT ROMEU

DISCOVERING FONT ROMEU

ON THE ROAD AGAIN TO FONT ROMEU - WE'RE ON A ROAD TRIP IN THE PYRENEES - read the whole report here.

PART 2 - FONT ROMEU

We wake in Ax Les Thermes to much needed snow all the way down to the village at 700m – not ideal as we were leaving for Font Romeu but after a dry month it is still exciting!

The drive turns out to be easier than we expected and going close to the Spanish border, passing through some tunnels and managing to avoid some cows licking salt off the road we arrive in Font Romeu at the Hotel Grand Tetras.

Our guide is Christophe from the Tourist Office and he also works as an ESF instructor so we are in good hands as we head up the hill – it’s blowing hard but the snow is falling as we explore the slopes of what is a small resort with limited vertical but it is friendly and perfect for beginners, intermediates and families.

Like most of the Pyreneans we see they seem to want to do that bit more than take your money and shrug and later that day we find ourselves being talked into trying out a Sit Ski, usually for use by those unable to ski themselves.   But they are holding an ‘open day’ and the volunteers are inviting people to try it out.  To find out how we got on click here.

That night we eat at La Table des Saveurs with Christian Sarran, director of the Tourist Office - he entertains us with stories of the area and his knowledge of wines is as good as his local knowledge which is great as we enjoy a couple of superb wines with dinner!

The Wednesday morning we head up the slopes again and venture over to the renowned snow park – reportedly only second in impressiveness behind Tignes in France and this year the hosts of a Freestyle World Cup event – a great coup for a resort of this size and the jumps are huge! Watch our report from there here.

That evening after a great ski we head off to more thermal baths at Llo – these are not as refined or new as the ones we visited in Ax but still have three different outside pools, a couple indoors and a sauna and steam room.  It’s a great way to relax the ski legs!

And then finsh our stay with a fabulous meal cooked by the charismatic Manu at Le Chalet Gourmand.

It's the perfect end to our stay in Font Romeu - tomorrow we have to move on.

READ MORE ABOUT OUR ADVENTURES HERE....

PART 1 - AX 3 DOMAINES

PART 3 - LES ANGLES

DISCOVERING AX LES THERMES

We're on a weeks adventure in The Pryenees and are on the road to Ax Les Thermes..... read the whole weeks report here.

PART 1 - AX 3 DOMAINES

Then we start the descent into Ax Les Thermes – first impressions are that it is huge!  Expecting a small village, we were surprised at how large it was and we could see the telecabine rising up from the village the other side of the mountain – that was for tomorrow.

We checked into the Lagrange’s Chalets des Ax – a series of comfortable apartments with a reception area, ours was a studio apartment with a sofa bed, small kitchen in the corner and a bathroom – they have larger ones available and there is a free Jacuzzi to use as well and are just a ten minute walk from the town centre.

FOOD & DRINK…

And to food!  We soon discovered it is very different from the usual Alpine fare and over the next few days enjoy the distinctly Mediterranean flavour to it.   Apparently there are 25 restaurants in Ax and only two specialise in the typical fondue and raclette so common in the Alps. But tonight we ventured out of town, about a fifteen minute drive to eat at Maison la Cube and it’s well worth the trip.  There is friendly welcome and great service from staff who run the restaurant.  Their policy is organic where possible and if organic isn’t available then locally produced food (and local is better than shipping something that is out of season half way round the world) – a great ethos especially when we consider this season’s snow conditions have probably been affected by global warming!  The result is a fabulous meal that tastes good and you feel it is doing you good rather than the usual cheese soaked meals that you almost feel obliged to eat after a hard day on the slopes.  How refreshing to be fed healthily in a ski resort!  It was accompanied by a bottle of regional white wine from Domaine de Lastronques that was superb and then finished off with their local plum version of Genepi!

Bed called and we turned in for an early night looking forward to discovering the ski area tomorrow.

SKIING IN AX 3 DOMAINES

Apparently there is only 40% of the area open and nearly all of that thanks to the snow canons that cover the runs in artificial snow. We learn later that the chief snowmaker is well known for being one of the best in the business – who knew there was a ranking in snow makers?

We join Stefane from the ESF who spends the morning guiding us around the three areas of Ax 3 Domains – all of which are open and can be accessed. Even with the limited snow all are very different.  It is easy to see that there is something for everyone from a new beginners area that is strictly only for beginners (they even have a special pass for that area) and as you progress, plenty of blues and easy reds. 

The thing that excites me most is the potential of the off piste – the tree line is much higher here than the Alps so you nearly always have cover in bad weather and there is a huge variety of off piste that would keep any powder hound happy if you timed it right.

Unlike the big household name resorts that get skied out in half an hour after a big fall we are reliably informed that you can find fresh tracks for days as few people ski off piste and the resort is quiet outside of holidays and weekends.

And then you find out that on all skiable sides of the mountain at the bottom are long green runs traversing around the mountain that always bring you back to resort! So wherever you ski off piste you pick your line, keep skiing until you hit the green run and then cruise back to resort to do it all again. No hiking out of hidden valleys here!

Damn you weather gods of 2016-17 – please deliver soon.  Oh well I guess I’ll just have to come back another time.

THE BEST APRES SKI!

A great day on the slopes and then we find the best après ski!  It doesn’t get much better than this and doesn’t even involve beer!

We head to Les Bains du Couloubret.

Thermal baths that are all created from naturally heated spring water.  You can even buy a combined ski and thermal pass on the same ticket – straight off the slopes and into the baths to soothe those aching legs!  You really don’t need loads of beer for après ski here!

Though the ones we washed a great pizza down with at The Grand Café tasted good!

What a day!

OFF THE SLOPES...

The following day we take off to discover a couple of other off slope things to do in the area – we retrace our steps back to the Col du Chioula which is usually a hive of activity for snow-shoeing and cross country skiing but this season is only suitable for a walk – but it’s a spectacular one with 360 degree views over the mountains and across the valley to the ski area we were cruising around yesterday.

We follow this with a local’s tip and explore a nearby thermal bath – this could not be more different than the baths yesterday – this is a 10 minute drive and then a 10 minute walk up a path into the trees and mountains in the direction of Merens (ask a local!) and we find the most perfect natural hot baths with a source of hot water running into them that even on this coldest of days make it worth stripping off and taking the plunge!

A couple of cocktails in the fabulous Grand Café before eating and then a ten minute stroll back to our apartment.

READ MORE ABOUT OUR ADVENTURES HERE....

PART 2 - FONT ROMEU

PART 3 - LES ANGLES

AN ADVENTURE IN THE PYRENEES

A WEEK IN THE PRYENEES

THE JOURNEY...

I’d never been to the Pyrenees and yet I have skied since I was a child and been fortunate to ski most of the major Alpine resorts, I’ve skied in the US and Canada but never made it to the Pyrenees for some reason so when the opportunity came up I jumped at it.  

If your geography is like mine then The Pyrenees are a range of mountains based on the border of France and Spain, they stretch the whole width of that border and also include Andorra.

Wanting to make the most of it, with a car and knowing we were on a tour we set off a day early with Carcassonne programmed into our sat nav.

Friends have recommended Carcassonne and I had read about how stunning it is in many travel media reports and it is also the inspiration for Kate Mosse’s novel Labyrinth. 

Tall turrets, fairy tale castle like appearance, small cobbled streets….

We arrived at our hotel in what looked like the old town but we discovered we weren’t in the medieval part at all – that came after dinner when we wandered across the ‘Pont Vieux’ (The Old Bridge) and then came to the ramparts. An uphill walk and we struggled to find a way in until we found a small gateway and then we were in! This is incredible!  Tall turrets, fairy tale castle like appearance, small cobbled streets we found a few bars and restaurants and chose one for a glass of wine and we warmed up. 

This place at night was like a dream and we couldn’t wait to come back to explore in the morning.

It didn’t disappoint – clearly a summer destination with several empty shops there was still a buzz and a very cold wind!  Wrap up warm if you venture here in January on your way to or from a ski trip in the Pyrenees!

Little cobbled streets, friendly bars and breakfast stops, resisting the vin chaud we stuck with teas and coffees (more appropriate for breakfast) and we wandered through the streets, inadvertently doubling back on ourselves and re tracing our steps more than once!  We found the Chateau, Basilique and Theatre and then walked the ramparts with great views over the new town and reluctantly headed for the car.

We had some skiing to do.

TWISTY WINDY ROADS…

The drive from Carcassonne to The Pyrenees is stunning, through orchards and vine yards and the foothills and then The Pyrenees themselves. It is breathtaking – twisty windy roads, amazing views and ever growing mountains.  We drove over the Col du Chioula and wondered if it would be closed during a usual winter of snow but 2016 / 2017 hadn’t yet delivered so we got to enjoy a fabulous drive.

Then the descent into Ax Les Thermes – first impressions are that it is huge!  Expecting a small village, we were surprised at how large it was and we could see the telecabine rising up from the village the other side of the mountain – that was for tomorrow.

We checked into the Lagrange’s Chalets des Ax – a series of comfortable apartments with a reception area, ours was a studio apartment with a sofa bed, small kitchen in the corner and a bathroom – they have larger ones available and there is a free Jacuzzi to use as well and are just a ten minute walk from the town centre.

FOOD & DRINK…

And to food!  We soon discovered it is very different from the usual Alpine fare and over the next few days enjoy the distinctly Mediterranean flavour to it.   Apparently there are 25 restaurants in Ax and only two specialise in the typical fondue and raclette so common in the Alps. But tonight we ventured out of town, about a fifteen minute drive to eat at Maison la Cube and it’s well worth the trip.  There is friendly welcome and great service from staff who run the restaurant.  Their policy is organic where possible and if organic isn’t available then locally produced food (and local is better than shipping something that is out of season half way round the world) – a great ethos especially when we consider this season’s snow conditions have probably been affected by global warming!  The result is a fabulous meal that tastes good and you feel it is doing you good rather than the usual cheese soaked meals that you almost feel obliged to eat after a hard day on the slopes.  How refreshing to be fed healthily in a ski resort!  It was accompanied by a bottle of regional white wine from Domaine de Lastronques that was superb and then finished off with their local plum version of Genepi!

Bed called and we turned in for an early night looking forward to discovering the ski area tomorrow.

SKIING IN AX 3 DOMAINES

Apparently there is only 40% of the area open and nearly all of that thanks to the snow canons that cover the runs in artificial snow. We learn later that the chief snowmaker is well known for being one of the best in the business – who knew there was a ranking in snow makers?

We join Stefane from the ESF who spends the morning guiding us around the three areas of Ax 3 Domains – all of which are open and can be accessed. Even with the limited snow all are very different.  It is easy to see that there is something for everyone from a new beginners area that is strictly only for beginners (they even have a special pass for that area) and as you progress, plenty of blues and easy reds. 

The thing that excites me most is the potential of the off piste – the tree line is much higher here than the Alps so you nearly always have cover in bad weather and there is a huge variety of off piste that would keep any powder hound happy if you timed it right.

Unlike the big household name resorts that get skied out in half an hour after a big fall we are reliably informed that you can find fresh tracks for days as few people ski off piste and the resort is quiet outside of holidays and weekends.

And then you find out that on all skiable sides of the mountain at the bottom are long green runs traversing around the mountain that always bring you back to resort! So wherever you ski off piste you pick your line, keep skiing until you hit the green run and then cruise back to resort to do it all again. No hiking out of hidden valleys here!

Damn you weather gods of 2016-17 – please deliver soon.  Oh well I guess I’ll just have to come back another time.

THE BEST APRES SKI!

A great day on the slopes and then we find the best après ski!  It doesn’t get much better than this and doesn’t even involve beer!

We head to Les Bains du Couloubret.

Thermal baths that are all created from naturally heated spring water.  You can even buy a combined ski and thermal pass on the same ticket – straight off the slopes and into the baths to soothe those aching legs!  You really don’t need loads of beer for après ski here!

Though the ones we washed a great pizza down with at The Grand Café tasted good!

What a day!

OFF THE SLOPES...

The following day we take off to discover a couple of other off slope things to do in the area – we retrace our steps back to the Col du Chioula which is usually a hive of activity for snow-shoeing and cross country skiing but this season is only suitable for a walk – but it’s a spectacular one with 360 degree views over the mountains and across the valley to the ski area we were cruising around yesterday.

We follow this with a local’s tip and explore a nearby thermal bath – this could not be more different than the baths yesterday – this is a 10 minute drive and then a 10 minute walk up a path into the trees and mountains in the direction of Merens (ask a local!) and we find the most perfect natural hot baths with a source of hot water running into them that even on this coldest of days make it worth stripping off and taking the plunge!

A couple of cocktails in the fabulous Grand Café before eating and then a ten minute stroll back to our apartment.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN TO FONT ROMEU

We wake to much needed snow all the way down to the village at 700m – not ideal as we were leaving for Font Romeu but after a dry month it is still exciting!

The drive turns out to be easier than we expected and going close to the Spanish border, passing through some tunnels and managing to avoid some cows licking salt off the road we arrive in Font Romeu at the Hotel Grand Tetras.

Our guide is Christophe from the Tourist Office and he also works as an ESF instructor so we are in good hands as we head up the hill – it’s blowing hard but the snow is falling as we explore the slopes of what is a small resort with limited vertical but it is friendly and perfect for beginners, intermediates and families.

Like most of the Pyreneans we see they seem to want to do that bit more than take your money and shrug and later that day we find ourselves being talked into trying out a Sit Ski, usually for use by those unable to ski themselves.   But they are holding an ‘open day’ and the volunteers are inviting people to try it out.  To find out how we got on click here.

That night we eat at La Table des Saveurs with Christian Sarran, director of the Tourist Office - he entertains us with stories of the area and his knowledge of wines is as good as his local koweldge which is great as we enjoy a couple of great wines with dinner!

The Wednesday morning we head up the slopes again and venture over to the renowned snow park – reportedly only second in impressiveness behind Tignes in France and this year the hosts of a Freestyle World Cup event – a great coup for a resort of this size and the jumps are huge! Watch out report from there here.

That evening after a great ski we head off to more thermal baths at Llo – these are not as refined or new as the ones we visited in Ax but still have three different outside pools, a couple indoors and a sauna and steam room.  It’s a great way to relax the ski legs!

MOVING ON TO LES ANGLES…

The next day we are on the move again as we drive to Les Angles – it’s an easy drive of around 20 minutes and we’re surprised at how large the town looks as we approach it. It seems to have a distinctly Alpine feel to it as the runs come down to the resort through the trees.

We meet Antonia from the Tourist Office and head up the mountain to ski.  The weather is back to its weird 2017 showing and it feels like spring!  But the pistes are empty, so empty it feels like a private ski resort.  The views here are stunning and you feel higher than in Font Romeu which you can see from the top along with Spain and Andorra. 

The vertical is more and the pistes are in great condition with the recent fresh snow on the base of artificial snow they have been producing – nearly all of the runs are within the trees which bodes well should there be bad weather and apparently makes for some fabulous off piste – when the conditions are good which sadly they aren't right now.

Late afternoon we go dog sledding – I am always dubious about this and not 100% sure the dogs are happy but once more I am swayed that they are and that they do love running – here there is a mix of dogs, they are not all the expected huskies and include a labrador and collie!  In the capable hands of Guillame we head out into the forest and he explains how the dogs work together, some you can see take a rest and don't work that hard, they place the stronger ones at the back where it is heavier and they command the dogs with very soft words from the back.  To make them turn at the right time he calmly calls out “a droit” or “a gauche” and he is always giving them some form of encouragement and they respond immediately.

We see some deer in the forest – it’s a protected area and hunting here isn’t allowed – they aren’t daft! Through the forest, alongside the lake it’s a beautiful journey and back at the centre we get to pet the dogs who are all friendly and do seem very happy.

Dinner is at the hotel Le LLaret and we have just one day left in the Pyrenees – the forecast is at last for a lot of snow but with it stormy winds and so we’re not sure we’ll be skiing tomorrow.

It’s gone from French Riviera spring weather to Siberian winter overnight and there are hardly any lifts open – skiing is off the agenda, We’re neither brave nor stupid enough to head up so instead set off to see more of the incredible history of the area.  We visit a walled mediaeval city Mont-Louis which is a UNESCO heritage site and then the thermal baths at St Thomas.  Back in resort later we venture out into the wind and discover a very cute little bar - Le Comptoir Montagne which doubles as a shop and we warm up with a vin chaud.

Restaurant Le Llaret feeds us again on our last night –great food and excellent service that feels very different to the usual Alpine resort food.

THE END

We have come to the end of our Pyrenean adventure and the following morning crawl slowly down the snowy roads and away from the Pyrenees.  Our stay has been all too short, we are leaving just as the snow arrives but I have seen enough to want to come back. 

Yes you do really need a car to make the most of it, but access from Barcelona, Toulouse, Perpignan or Carcassonne is easy. For a week’s holiday experienced skiers will want to make it a two or three resort stop trip but for beginners and families or a long weekend it is ideal. 

The Pyrenean resorts we visited generally felt very different to the large Alpine resorts that we tend to head to almost by default, much friendlier and more welcoming and most of the resorts don’t have a problem doing short breaks so for a cheeky weekend when it snows this would be ideal.  We’ll be back! READ MORE ABOUT THE PYRENEES HERE

Ski Amis Launch Learn to Ski – 25 March 2017 – La Tania, Three Valleys

Catered chalet company, Ski Amis, has launched a learn-to-ski week in La Tania this coming March.

Spring is a great time to learn – the slopes are quieter, the snow is good and the days are longer. The resort of La Tania is the perfect place to learn to ski, with nursery slopes within easy access and stunning long tree-lined runs.

“We all have a friend or family member that would love to try out skiing, but is worried about being the only one who can’t stay upright. We created this package deal to bring together like-minded people who are all in the same boat” said Chris Woodbridge-Cox, Commercial Director of Ski Amis.

“When you’re learning in a group, things don’t seem so daunting. We are sure this week is going to be a huge success and all of our guests will head home loving skiing as much as we love skiing”

The week is aimed at adults who have never skied before, and will provide guests with a great introduction to this fantastic sport.

Here’s what’s included:

• Transfers from and to Geneva, Grenoble or Chambery Airport
• 7 nights ‘chalet board’ in Chalet Christine, La Tania
• 6 day local area lift pass (Courchevel and La Tania – 150km of pistes)
• 6 days of morning lessons with an English speaking ESF instructor (Max 8 per group)
• Ski, boot and helmet hire (Silver Evolution)

Price: £899.00 p.p. based on 2 adults sharing a twin room with en-suite shower/wc.

To find out more contact Ski Amis through their chalet page here. 

Optional:

Whilst most people who try skiing fall in love with it immediately, Ski Amis have recognised that is can be an expensive sport to take up and instead of investing in the latest ski gear before you have tried it, they have teamed up with Skismart, the ski clothing hire specialists, to get guest a top end jacket and pants set for just £60.00 for the week. This price includes delivery to and collection from your home, and you can even try the kit on for free beforehand to ensure you get a good fit.

SNOW REPORT FROM FLAINE & A HALF TERM CANCELLATION

Rich reports from a fabulous looking Flaine with Ian from Les Carroz Chalets who has just had a cancellation in their Chalet Bry for half term.

Not much availble for half term so if you're looking for somewhere for the week of 18th February check this great deal out.  The chalet sleeps up to 12 people - check it out here.

IT’S BEEN SNOWING!

Three days of snow makes things look very different!  Amazing conditions in the Alps at the moment - here's a report from Le Grand Massif.